Things You Should Know About Double Breasted Suits

What should someone understand before buying a double breasted suit?

A double breasted suit is a stylish and classic choice, but it's important to understand a few things before buying one to ensure it looks its best on you. Here's a breakdown:

1. Fit is Crucial:

• Jacket Length: Double-breasted jackets tend to be slightly longer than single-breasted ones. The hem should fall to around the middle of your thumb when your arms are hanging naturally.
• Shoulders: The shoulder seams should lie flat and end at the edge of your shoulders. Avoid jackets where the seams extend beyond your shoulders or feel tight.
• Chest and Waist: The jacket should fit comfortably across your chest and have a gentle shape through the waist. It shouldn't feel too tight or too loose. A good fit will create a flattering V-shape silhouette.
• Buttoning Point: The buttoning point (where the jacket fastens) is important for how the suit looks. It should ideally sit at or slightly below your natural waist. This helps to elongate the torso and create a balanced look.

2. Button Stance and Configuration:

• Button Stance: This refers to the arrangement of buttons. Common configurations include 6x2 (six buttons, two to button), 6x1, and 4x1. The 6x2 is the most classic and versatile.
• Always Buttoned: Unlike single-breasted suits, double-breasted jackets are generally meant to be worn buttoned. Only the top button (or middle button in a 6x2) should be fastened.

3. Lapels:

• Peak Lapels: Peak lapels are the most common and generally considered the most stylish choice for double-breasted suits. They are wider and point upwards, adding emphasis to the shoulders and creating a more powerful look.
• Notch Lapels: While less common, notch lapels can also be found on double-breasted suits. However, they are generally considered less formal.

4. Fabric and Pattern:

• Fabric: Wool is a classic choice for double-breasted suits, offering durability and a refined look. Other options include linen for warmer weather or blends for added texture.
• Pattern: Solid colors are versatile, but subtle patterns like pinstripes or checks can add visual interest. Avoid overly bold patterns, as they can overwhelm the double-breasted style.

5. Style and Occasion:

• Formality: Double-breasted suits are generally considered more formal than single-breasted suits. They are suitable for business settings, formal events, and special occasions.⁴
• Modern vs. Classic: Modern double-breasted suits often have a slimmer fit and higher buttoning point, while classic styles have a more relaxed fit and lower buttoning point.

6. Body Type:

• Taller and Slimmer Builds: Double-breasted suits can work well on taller and slimmer builds, as the extra fabric can add some visual bulk.
• Shorter or Stockier Builds: If you're shorter or have a stockier build, it's crucial to find a well-tailored double-breasted suit with a higher buttoning point and a slimmer fit to avoid looking boxy. Vertical stripes can also help to elongate the body.

7. Tailoring:

• Essential for a Good Fit: Off-the-rack double-breasted suits often require tailoring to achieve the perfect fit. Pay attention to the shoulders, chest, waist, and sleeve length.

In summary, before buying a double-breasted suit, consider the fit, button stance, lapels, fabric, occasion, and your body type. Proper tailoring is essential to ensure the suit looks its best and complements your physique.